Tin Can Bay Outdoor Photography Workshops - Photo Tips & Tutorials

[...] worth giving some consideration, when confronted with a situation where you need to place your main point of interest on or near the edge of the frame, to add another subordinate point of interest on [...]

[...] may even be using the sunrise merely as a backdrop whilst the second element is in fact your main point of interest. I might point out here, that there is an instance where it is acceptable to have [...]

[...] is a very important link as to the viewer impact of our images. It can change the focal point (main point of interest) as well as the mood and/or emotion of the image. To give some examples of this: A [...]

[...] interesting looking plate or platter, but not too interesting that it detracts away from your main point of interest. Try also a couple of props, such as a whitish or plain table cloth, fork, wine [...]

[...] In most cases Still Life photography is not too far removed from food photography and like food photography, it is best done indoors under natural light, either from a window or open doorway. And [...]

[...] right now.’ Well, that’s just the sort of response that one would expect to get when viewing food photography. When you are looking for a recipe book, chances are you are looking for the one that [...]

[...] enough in bright sunshine. A good versatile lens is all you really need for this sort of work. A zoom lens in the order of about 28 - 200mm will do the job admirably. So, if your kit fit’s the bill, [...]

[...] the subject in your photos. It is sometimes best if you can use a long lens, or at least a zoom lens - including one that came as a package deal with your camera, if it allows a range from [...]

[...] and you are unsure as to what accessories or lenses you should bring with you, might I suggest a zoom lens that includes a 20 to 50mm range to cover most landscape situations, but one that allows for [...]

[...] as a feature in a "Minimalism" image, try to fill the frame with your scene. A zoom lens is ideal for getting in closer to your subject or adding to the composition, but also [...]

[...] will need almost the same amount of scrutiny, care and consideration as inside. Obviously, a SLR camera is best suited for this type of photography. Mainly due to the fact that if you need to use [...]

[...] , the DSLR has got to be out on its own. In fact, I will continue this tutorial based on the SLR camera, but a great deal of it will still refer to the point and shoot and I am sure that by reading [...]

[...] should be done in your mind as a sort of pre-visualisation, before you actually press the shutter button. This will not only help you become a better photographer, but it will save all that extra [...]

[...] be working on times of up to thirty seconds and more. It’s no use attempting to press the shutter button after the lightning has struck as it all happens so quickly, your chances of catching it will [...]

[...] will balance a bright one. Simply by checking the scene carefully prior to pressing the shutter button, and by moving to the right or left, or by gaining a higher or lower viewing angle, you can [...]

[...] in very handy. If you would rather see some detail in your foreground feature/s, press the shutter button again whilst shining your flash light on them. Sometimes, depending on how close in you are [...]

[...] also get a sync lead as a link between your flash and your camera. This allows you to hold the flash unit with a free hand while the camera is mounted on a tripod. Or as an added optional bonus, you [...]

[...] be behind the group and off to the left, so I wouldn't have a problem with back lighting and my flash unit would balance the scene anyway. Once I had all the main coordinates fathomed out I then [...]

[...] natural light as it gives better controllability. If you have an external, swivel type, flash unit, you could probably try bouncing the light from that off a whitish wall or ceiling. [...]

[...] Tin Can Bay – Another Little Treasure Wherever you travel and at times perhaps a little off the beaten [...]

[...] that are both inspirational and educational in and around this beautiful area where I live in Tin Can bay, Queensland, Australia. My sunrise tours begin pre-dawn and take in the amazing early morning [...]

[...] Tin Can Bay Photography Tours Mission Statement… Are you seeking help with the functions of your camera? Do [...]

[...] at ease. By the way, natural light is best to use in these situations. You don’t want to use on-camera flash, as it tends to create nasty shadows and blown out areas as well as red eye and not to [...]

[...] as long as you can switch to “Portrait” or “Close-up” mode. But do not intend to use on-camera flash in this situation, unless you absolutely have to. If you have an external flash [...]

[...] shadows. This may even be a feature you can use, but at least be aware of it. Avoid using on-camera flash if you can, it is far better to use natural light as it gives better controllability. If you [...]

[...] on them. Sometimes, depending on how close in you are to your chosen foreground, your on-camera flash or external flash unit may be enough to cast light on them, but you should definitely [...]

[...] away or a train pulling away from the station or subway. To achieve these effects, a good sturdy tripod is really quite essential, because of the slow shutter speeds you are working with. I would [...]

[...] view in the direction of the sky you will be photographing. Your equipment should include a good sturdy tripod, remote or cable shutter release, and your camera should have the ability to be manually [...]

[...] sort of camera for the job as well as something to keep it stabilised - preferably a good sturdy tripod. Now, I mentioned above, why I think it is that a lot of sunrise photos never seem to [...]